Peru travel guide

This travel guide was created largely by combining information found on the Internet. Credits go the the original authors.

This guide consists mainly of snippets of information I found on the internet. Credits go to the original authors. It has a slight focus on travellers from the Netherlands.

Practicalities
    Preparations
        Do
        Take with you
    Safety
        Taxi safety and scams
        Health
    Telephone / internet
    Electricity
    Paying
        Credit Cards
        ATM
        Tipping
Hotels / Hostels
Transportation
    Busses
    Trains
Eating and drinking
Place-by-place information
    Lima
    Pisco
    Nazca
    Arequipa
    Colca Canyon
    Cabanaconde
    Chivay
    Puno
    Cusco
    Aguas Calientes
    Machu picchu
Links

Practicalities

Preparations

Do

• Make a scan of your passport. Store the scan on a network drive, accessible from your phone. Print a shrunk-down version of your passport on credit card format. Create photo-copies of credit and debit cards and leave these at home, for friends/family.
• Make sure you ‘unlock’ your debit/credit card for usage in South America.
• Configure your credit card such that you will receive an email on every transaction.
• Familiarize yourself with the daily limit on both your credit and debit cards.
• Distribute your itinerary to partner, family or friends.
• Inquire about the need for vaccination (Netherlands: GGD). As long as you don’t travel to the Amazon nor the far North: only recommended ones are against DTP (diphtheria, tetanus, polio) and hepatitis-A.
• Inquire about the need for an additional health insurance (when you have to be fetched by ambulance from a remote area, costs can mount quickly)
• Clear memory of phone and camera(s).
• Charge phone and camera(s).
• Disable facial recognition and fingerprint access on your smartphone.
• Store the address and phone number of your embassy in Peru in your phone/email.
• Store the emergency number of your bank / credit card company in your phone
• Install maps.me on your phone, download offline card of the area’s in Peru you plan on visiting. maps.me has touristic routes.

Take with you

• A jacket, it will get chilly (even freeze) high up in the Andes
• For the same reason: a sweater
• A debit- and a credit card
• Health insurance pass
• Power adapter for Peru power sockets
• Good hiking shoes
• Plastic zip bags to shield your clothing from bugs
• A pair of binoculars (Condors), or a zoom lens.
• Extra memory cards for your camera (when your camera gets lost, you hopefully still have photos on some memory cards that you kept in your hotel safe).
• Sunscreen crème (high level of UV on high elevation)
• Cap (UV)
• Anti-itch crème (e.g. for bed bugs)
• Head torch
• Pad lock (for hostel lockers)
• Flip-flops (for swimming pool)

When selecting your hostel, consider the following:

• does it have warm water ? (in Peru this is not a given)
• does it have airco ?
• does it have a safe or locker ?
• is it in a safe neighborhood ?

Safety

It might be a bit depressing to start a travel guide with safety tips. This has a reason. If you were born in a first-world country, then you have a ‘first-world mentality’ regarding safety, which means that you are not as vigilant in detecting crime or dangerous situations as compared to people born in less fortunate places. Second or third world citizens have a built-in radar that you lack. Be conscious of your blind spot.

Peru is not an unsafe country, but it is regretfully known (even by its South-American neighbors) as a country in which petty crime flourishes. Several tips:

• Carry bank cards, passport or driver's license around as little as possible. Use photocopies or cash instead. Leave your cards/passport/drivers license in the locker or safe of your hotel.
• Don't use debit or credit cards in taxi's, restaurants or shops (as you are used to in your home country). Pay with cash instead. The locals also do it this way. The reason is that Latin-America still very much relies on the magnetic stripe on your card instead of on the chip, which makes skimming of your card a real possibility. 
• Don’t carry more cash with you then you need for one day. Leave the rest at your hotel.
• When in a bus, store passes/drivers license on your body. There have been cases of people being pickpocketed while they were sleeping. Never leave a bag with your wallet and passport in the overhead rack of a bus.
• When in a restaurant, don’t leave your jacket or photo equipment lying around on a table or a bench.
• Pickpockets are primarily active at busy spots and events. Therefore, be vigilant in crowded areas such as bus terminals, railway stations, markets and festivals. Pickpockets usually work as a gang, with 1 person distracting you, for instance by asking you something, blocking your way or spill something over you. When somebody notifies you that you have bird poop on your clothes, or if someone spills something over you, your internal alarm should go off. Pickpockets have been known to cut bags open.
• Peru is known for credit card fraud. Whenever you hand over your credit card to somebody behind a desk, then keep an eye on your credit card. If one is taking too long handling your card, or if one walks away with it, then there is a probability of skimming. Keep an eye on credit card withdrawal notifications (per email) during your trip.
• Use ATMs solely during daytime, and solely in the better neighborhoods.
• Don’t walk long distances during night time, get a cab instead. Order it in a safe way, so have your restaurant or hotel order one, order an Uber (except in in Lima), or wave down an official taxi of a well-known taxi company. Avoid any other form of taxi at all times.
• Never leave your drink unattended and don't drink anything you didn't buy yourself, or at least see poured.
• Hotels – especially cheap ones – aren’t always trustworthy; lock valuables inside your luggage or use safety deposit services.
• Walk purposefully wherever you are going, even if you are lost; if you need to examine your map, duck into a shop or restaurant.
• It's not advisable to book hotels, travel arrangements or transportation through independent agents. Often, they will demand cash upfront for services that never materialize. Stick to reputable, well-recommended agencies and you’ll be assured a good time.
• Avoid arrival at a bus terminal late at night
• Plan your trip ahead as much as possible. Planning decreases the chance of you ending up in an unforeseen and potentially dangerous situation.
• If you stay at a hostel: only chose the ones that provide a locker. Bring your own padlock. Make sure the model fits on a variety of lockers. Some hostels provide an electronic card that can also be used to unlock your locker.
• Travel with the bigger, more expensive bus companies. These include Cruz del Sur, Ormeno and Oltursa. Their safety/crash record is far better.
• Don't get involved in drugs or prostitution. Doing so makes you vulnerable: it puts you in a 'twilight zone' where criminals have more freedom to manipulate you. The majority of murders on tourist in South-America have taken place in these settings.
• Don’t use showers where the electric heating element has been built into the shower head. They are aptly coined ‘suicide showers’.
• Street dogs run rampant in Peru (even hairless ones!). Most often these pesky guys are more bark than bite though. However: if bitten (or even licked), you could catch rabies, which is no joke: it is usually fatal if untreated.

Bank account: use a separate bank account just for traveling and change your PIN after your trip as scammers can still strike some time after your trip if they have your details.

Scam opening: a friendly local approaches and engages you in conversation. You are then invited to get a drink together at a nearby bar.

Version 1: he/she will order expensive drinks (actually diluted ones) that will be put on your tab. At the end, you will be presented with an inflated bill.
Version 2: drink spiking by peperas.
What to do: avoid: heading to a suggested bar together with a random stranger. If not, consider: does the bar seem legitimate? Are there customers? Is the stranger evasive about things?Is he/she only bringing you to a particular restaurant or bar? Test your new “friend”: pretend you have company by suggesting to go another place where you have friends at. Ask for prices before ordering. Take a photo together. If scammed: threaten to call the police, pay with a credit card but call immediately to dispute the charges. Keep a separate bank account with little cash to limit your losses if threatened.

Scam: tour operators. Of the ~800+ tour operators in Cusco, a massive 600+ are unlicensed. Guides are also not on salary but are compensated on a commission basis when they can upsell expensive services or packages to you. Further, such operators usually have poor safety practices with regards to transportation and equipment. You may also be rushed through your tour.

What to do: offline operators: ask – is the operator licensed? Does it have the SABP logo? Is there a website, office and working phone number? Are there real online reviews? What does the price cover – is it too cheap? Online platforms: GetYourGuide (leading day tour platform globally) also has many popular tours (e.g. Humantay Lake trek, Machu Picchu tour, Historic Centre of Lima walking tour, etc).

Paying: avoid paying in full upfront (unless reputable operator) or off the (online) platform.

Peru is the world leader in producing counterfeit USD notes. Besides USD, there are counterfeit Peruvian sols too. Scam set-up: scammers target tourists by asking if you can help them by changing their (counterfeit) 100 sol note with two of your 50 sol notes.

Ayahuasca is a psychedelic drug. It is not illegal but can be a cause of scams. Scam set-up: shamans offering “spiritual cleansing” will perform rituals with tourists in remote jungle areas in Peru. Once you start hallucinating, rogue shams can rob or assault you.

Scam swapping bank notes
Version 1: swapping the note you have given to a note of lower value, then demanding that you top up or shortchange you.
Version 2: giving you Mexican pesos as change (worth less) instead of Peruvian soles.

ATM scams
Version 1 (ATM): card skimmer installed to capture your card details, pinhole camera/keypad over installed to capture your PIN.
Version 2 (ATM): card slot is rigged with a device to trap your card. When you find your card stuck, scammer tells you to type your PIN thrice to eject it. This is false – a trick to see your PIN. If you head somewhere to seek help, the scammer will release your card and escape.

Version 3 (card): swiping your card through another machine to capture your details or using your card to make another transaction elsewhere.

Advice: use ATMs at controlled environments (e.g. banks). Scan the area for suspicious looking characters and red flags of a rigged ATM. Cover your PIN while typing. Set up SMS or email notification when a transaction is processed on your card. Do not use your card in taxis.

Taxi safety and scams
In South-America, taxis are a place where you need to be more aware of scamming and safety. For instance, in Bogota (Colombia), approx 25% of cab drivers try to play a trick on you. Best is to use an Uber *unless* you are in Lima. When taking Uber, obviously make sure that the license plates match up and the names match up. Consider taking Uber black (higher quality cars).

Even with Uber, there are scams to be aware of. For instance, a driver may turn Uber off after you stepped into the car, to avoid Uber from tracking the ride. Then, upon arrival, he will charge you a ridiculous price. To avoid this, keep your Uber app open during the ride and monitor its progress.

The safest way to call a taxi is to ask your hotel or hostel to do it for you. Almost all hostels and hotels have a relationship with a taxi company whose drivers are known and trusted.

There have been several instances of a foreigner taking a no-name cab and some corners later other people are picked up to rob the tourist. To be safe, don't just hail any old cab that passes by. Always take branded taxis (of which you can see plenty). Several of these branded taxis are very careful about the owners/drivers they take on. Consequently, they are very reliable. Branded taxis can be recognised by the taxi sign on top of the car. To be on the safe side, look at the license plate too. It should be all white with a yellow bar on the top. This means it’s been recently registered.

Make sure you have cash, preferably in smaller notes so no exchange tricks can be played. Never pay with a debit nor credit card in a cab (skimming).

As Taxis in Peru do not use meters, a common scam is to charge an inflated flat fare. Before you even stepping into a cab, make sure you negotiate on a price, and make sure that there is no confusion.

Common scams include:

• Driver claiming at the end of the ride that the negotiated price was in USD, not pesos
• Driver claiming at the end of the ride that the negotiated price was per passenger
• Driver claiming that they don’t take cash, or don’t have change, and asking you to pay by credit- or debit-card. They will use a fake terminal and skim your card.

Scam: you pay the driver with cash, but he claims it is not enough or he does not have change. He probably tries to create confusion, so you lose track of what you paid him. Always first ask the money back that you already paid him, before you hand him other band notes.

Scam: you pay the driver with cash, but he returns you your money, claiming that he cannot change it. In these cases, the driver might have swapped your high denomination note with a false one.

Scam: drivers that corner really fast, in order to shake stuff out of your pockets and collect it later on. If a driver suddenly increases the pressure on you to leave his cab, then you know he is playing tricks with you. Don’t be intimidated, slow down and check your possessions carefully before leaving the cab.

Don’t believe a taxi driver when he claims that hotel/hostel/tour is closed or full. He will be bringing you to somewhere else where he gets a commission.

Taxi scam: opening: at airports, unlicensed drivers will pretend to know you, or claim to have been sent by your hotel; or your hotel staff calls one for you. You will probably end up being overcharged.

When you get in a taxi, always lock the doors. Would-be thieves sometimes walk up and down traffic testing door handles. Once they find one that’s open – bingo. They surprise you, grab your stuff and scarper.

Health

You cannot drink the water in Peru. Always drink bottled water. Sometimes a local will tell you that it is safe to drink tap water. They mean: it is safe for them. Peel the fruit yourself, boil any vegetables. Avoid ice cubes in drinks as well. Avoid ice stalls. Don’t eat things that might have been washed in non-fresh water, like salads.

High(er) up in the Andes, water boils at a lower temperature, which means that you have to boil it longer than usual in order to kill the microorganisms living in it. For example, at 3 km altitude, water boils at 90ºC. Be careful, even with something as seemingly innocent as coffee.

Basically, eating street food puts you at greater risk of getting sick. You will be missing out if you don’t try it, so if you must, then go where a lot of people seem to be eating. Popular = tasty and safe.

Make sure you don’t eat things that look like they’ve been sitting around in the sun all day. Probably old, probably not tasty, probably will make you ill.

Stick to the ‘500 meters of elevation per day’ rule. Whenever you feel light-headed, get a headache or get nauseous, then descend. Chewing on coca leaves may bring relief.

Telephone / internet

Buy a prepaid SIM card. Claro, Movistar, Bitel, and Entel are the dominant communication providers in Peru. In the Miraflores district of Lima, all of these providers can be found a 2 to 10 minute walk from Parque Kennedy. Bring your passport for identification and local currency to avoid any inconveniences. The words un chip de prepago, or prepaid SIM card, will get you on the right track if your Spanish is limited.

At the time of purchase, buy some credit so that you can leave the store with a functioning phone, with internet access and call capability. An amount of S/.20 (about US$6) of prepaid credit should be enough to get you started. Once you add credit, you will receive a text message confirming the amount. This is a good indicator that your phone is working properly.

For example, as of September 2019, with Movistar, you can buy your SIM for 5 soles, and 20 soles prepaid plan comes with 2 gigs of internet. With Claro, SIM is also 5 soles and 3GB of internet is 30 soles; as a bonus Facebook and WhatsApp photos, voice clips, and messages are unlimited.

The SIM card that you buy in Peru comes with a local number. Cell phone numbers are 9 digits. Land-lines are different in that they only have 8 digits.

Peru’s country code is “51”. If someone from outside Peru wants to call your new Peruvian cell phone number, the numbers they dial will look something like 51 / 9? / ?? – ??? – ???

Emergency calls: 112

Adding credit to your prepaid SIM card is quick, easy, and convenient.

Official Claro, Movistar, Entel, and Bitel stores aren’t the only places to buy credit. Corner convenient stores and large supermarkets, such as Wong or Metro, also sell prepaid minutes.  A good trick is to look for businesses that have signs with your provider’s logos hanging outside their storefront.

Simply head to the counter of the shop with your telephone number and money on hand. Inform the person at checkout that you want to add phone credit, Claro recarga, Bitel recarga, Entel recarga, or Movistar recarga; tell them the amount and your phone number; and they’ll take care of processing the phone credit transaction. Make sure you receive a text message to confirm your transaction at checkout.

http://www.claro.com.pe/portal/pe/sc/personas/

Electricity

Electricity in Peru is provided at 220V. There are three different types of wall sockets in Peru, two of which are the same as those found in the United States (A and B). Most establishments will have two different types of outlets, but it is best to come prepared with an adapter for all situations. If you’re coming from Europe or elsewhere, an adapter is a must.

Paying

In Peru (as well as Bolivia), two currencies are used: the local one and the US dollar.

The local currency is the ‘sol’, 1 sol is  €0.27, 1 euro is 3.70 sol. So when converting from sol to euros, the conversion rate is between ⅓ en 1/4 in. Example:

40 sol -> between 13 and 10 euro.

You should pay all small purchases with the local currency. Also in restaurants, and during long bus rides, it is common to pay with soles or bolivianos. However, tours, air travel and hotels are usually paid with American dollars. Be aware that the locals are very picky: a dollar bill with even a minor tear will be rejected!

It is easy to exchange your USDs and sols in the larger cities. You’ll lose about 3 sol-cent on the dollar in official currency exchange offices in Peru. Suppose the exchange rate of dollar:soles is 2.64, then you’ll receive approx 2.61. It might be attractive to acquire sols in your country of origin, check your local bank.

There is a lot of counterfeit money in circulation. Most salesmen will reject bills that looks worn or has been torn. When you receive such bills when exchanging money, then do not hesitate to ask for a different bill. If you find yourself stuck with an old, but valid bill that nobody wants to accept, then you can swap it for free by heading to a bank.

Don’t carry all your valuables with you. Generally speaking, damage done in the case of theft can be minimized by only carrying along the amount of cash that you think you need for the day. Leave the remainder of your cash, and your cards in a safe place in your hotel. If you are not sure if it is safe to leave your valuables at your hotel, then a money belt under your clothing might be a good option.

All foreigners staying more than 59 days in Peru are subject to an 18% tax. To be exempt from this 18% additional fee (IVA), a copy of the immigration card and passport must be presented.

In restaurants, when paying with cash, pay with soles instead of USD. Prices are listed in soles, so this saves you the calculation hassle once you have to pay.

Credit Cards

Credit cards are accepted in lots of stores, restaurants en hotels, Visa and MasterCard being the most accepted ones. As noted before, it is preferred to pay with cash to reduce the risk of skimming. Caution: most businesses charge a hefty commission, up to 10%. Always inform about the commission percentage prior to paying.

ATM
ATMs are abundant in large, but also in smaller (touristic) cities. Banco de Crédito deserves preference, because a large amount of cash (in Peru S/. 1400 or 400$) can be withdrawn, lowering the commission that the bank charges. This bank also appears to be safe: the ATMs are usually watched over by guards and customers have to wait behind a red line.

Attention: the ATMs operate in a slightly different manner as compared to the ones found in the Netherlands and Belgium: they eject the bank card only after they produced the cash and the receipt. It often happens that tourists are not aware of this and walk away while their debit card is still in the ATM. Which would be somewhat annoying at day #1 of a holiday…

The ATM distribution is sparse in the Colca Canyon, on lake Titicaca and around Aguas Calientes. Be sure to arrive at those destinations with enough cash money.

In the case of ATM outage or problems: the bigger chance of success is offered by Scotiabank.

ATMs in Peru offer the choice of withdrawing either soles or US dollars. It is cheaper to withdraw USD, and then head over to an currency exchange office to swap them for soles. This is because when withdrawing soles, the bank charges additional fees for the exchange. Plus, the exchange rate that the bank offers is often not as good as the one from a currency exchange office.

Your Mileage May Vary, but Scotiabank appears to charge the least for usage of their ATMs. Scotiabank is a common bank in Peru and can easily be found.

Keep in mind that power outage is common in Peru, so don’t rely solely on ATMs to acquire money. Maintain a little stash of bare money should the ATMs seize operation.

Keep in mind that there is a daily limit to the amount of cash you can pull from an ATM, and sometimes that limit is low enough to get you into trouble (e.g., not being able to book a tour). Do some research beforehand.

Keep also in mind that PIN/debit card payments in South-America use the magnetic strip instead of the chip on your debit card, in Europe it is the other way around. So if the magnetic strip on your debit card is bad, you will likely onely discover this once you try using it in South America.

Tipping

In restaurants, it’s customary to add 10% to the bill if you’re happy with the service. Some ‘gringo’ restaurants will automatically add on this service charge. In smaller local restaurants, it’s customary to add 1 or 2 soles onto the bill. It’s a good idea to tip tour guides too, especially if you’ve learned a lot from them.

Hotels / Hostels

Hot water is not ‘standard’ in Peru hostels. If you appreciate the availability of hot water, then filter your hostel selection on this.

Recommendations in https://www.reisjunk.nl/hotel-hostel-peru/

Transportation

Travelers may experience periodic protests and strikes that can cut off transportation.

Buses

Buses in Peru are separated into the following classes:

• Luxury buses, also known as ‘Imperial’. Can cost up to 10x the amount of ‘economy’ buses but are a lot quicker and more comfortable. Often used for long haul bus journeys.
• Bus-camas These are buses that drive at night, they are equipped with seats that can be converted into beds. Also known as ‘bed-busses’. Used for long haul bus journeys as well.
• Economy buses Mainly used for short haul travel (up to 6 hours). The more luxurious buses are often not available for the short haul. These buses are not that good. Minimal intermediate stops, remember to take enough food and drinks with you for the ride.

One of the best and known bus companies is Cruz del Sur. Ormeno is good as well, and cheaper.

Travel Agencies in cities or at popular attractions sell tickets for nearly all buses. Count ony paying a little bit more though.

Instead of buying your ticket at Travel Agencies, it’s better to buy it at the bus company instead, preferably one day before hand. Count on prices rising steeply during peak season and local holidays.

When using a bus terminal, one has to pay an ‘terminal tax’ on the spot (which is used to maintain the bus station). This tax is, for example, in Arequipa US $ 0,50. It shouldn’t be much more than that.

Few cities in Peru, apart from Tacna, Arequipa, Cusco and Arequipa, have a central bus station. In order to buy tickets, one often has to visit the office of the particular bus company. Most of them are closely located though.

Peru Hop.
Peru Hop does not leave from every destination every day so you need to do a bit of forwarding thinking to ensure your itinerary is met. Peru Hop drops you off at your chosen hostel door (if an affiliate of theirs, which many are) so no taxi or walking from stations. Peru hop service is quite nice but more expensive and with less options in terms of service frequencies, i.e., only one departure each day while Cruz del Sur may have several. Quite some backpacker blogs recommend Peru Hop but it is more expensive. Additionally, not all routes are included, like the one between Huaraz and the Colca Canyon. It is better to book your bus rides yourself using the app BusBud. Using this app, it is easy to compare prices and make reservations.

Keep an eye on your hand luggage during the bus journey, preferably place your bag on your lap or between your feet. There have been reports of travellers who placed their hand luggage in the overhead bin, fell asleep, to discover that their bag was gone at their final destination.

Taxi’s

Note that taxis in Peru do not have metres… you need to negotiate the price with the driver! Do this before even getting in the taxi. Only use taxi’s of an established company (see safety tips).

Taxi Start (Normal Tariff) 7.25 S /
Taxi 1 mile (Normal Tariff) 8.05 S /
5km: 32 S /  € 8.70

Don’t use Uber in Lima. It is loaded with complaints and shady practises.

Usually Taxi drivers also do Uber, so you'll probably get a taxi. Uber is cheaper in Arequipa then taxis as well especially if you are a tourist.

Trains

Trains in Peru are not cheap, and need to be reserved well in advance, especially in the high season. Tickets are sold by both Peru Rail and Inca Rail. PeruRail is Peru’s ‘NS’.

Both Peru Rail and Inca rail maintain a daily schedule between Cusco and Aguas Calientes (for Machu Picchu). The journey to Machu Picchu (Ollantaytambo to Aguas Calientes) is a popular and beautiful one. It is a good and fast alternative to the multi day Machu Picchu hikes as well as the the long ride per minivan across terrifying abysses. Round ticket is about 100 euros.

Peru rail rides between Cusco and Puno, alternating direction with every day. Cost can be quite high (230 euro for a 1-way trip). Trip duration is 10 hours. It is recommended to choose a seat facing the driving direction and on the side of the river. When heading to Machu Picchu, that would be the left side. There are on-board shows, drinks, lunch, cocktail workshops, and a stop is made at a market that takes place on part of the railway tracks. The terminal is at Wanchaq station, which is reasonable close to the center of Cusco.

Eating and drinking

See the ‘health’ section for more information.

• Pisco sour. This delectable cocktail is made of lime, egg whites, and pisco (A local liquor).
• Ceviche
• Cuy (guinea pig)
• Chifa (the Peruvian take on Chinese food) - Lomo Saltado
• Choclo, a large kernel corn. This snack is best enjoyed by individually picking off each kernel and eating it with an accompanying bite of soft Peruvian cheese.
• Alpaca steaks
• Queso helado (cheese with ice) - be careful: ice can make you sick
• Anticuchos - cow heart
• Papas a la Huancaina - are a popular side dish or appetiser in Peru, and consists of small, purple, boiled potatoes which are then drizzled in a spicy sauce made of cheese, chilli, garlic, amongst other things

Many small local restaurants offer a ‘menú del dia or short menú’ around lunch hour. It usually consists of an appetizer (entrada; usually 2 or 3 options, often soup) and a main dish (segundo; usually 4 to 8 options) for a fixed price (from 4 to 15 sol). Some places even throw in an additional drink. Lots of Peruvian people make uses of this. This is a good and generally speaking tasty way to enjoy a warm meal on the cheap.

Place-by-place information

Lima

Avoid problems by taking the Airport Express Lima bus directly from the airport to Miraflores instead of taxing a taxi. Stay in Miraflores area. Never use Uber in Lima, there are a ton of complaints/scams associated with it.

Climate in June: around 20°C daytime, 16°C at night.

Pisco

Climate in June: around 22°C daytime, 13°C at night.

Nazca

Travel guides warn for so-called "jaladores" (street merchants, who lure tourists to a hotel or travel agencies), especially in Nazca. These travel guides don’t exaggerate.

When arriving in Nazca, count on a large crowd gathered at the bus stop that attempts to acquire business. Big promises are made, like a room 10 sol (with on-suite and warm water) and plane rides for $30. They will tell you the establishment you’ve chosen is a notorious drug den, it’s closed down or is overbooked. DO NOT BELIEVE THIS. It are cheap tricks to convince you to join them. The 10 soles room is a broom closet where you wouldn’t let your dog sleep in, a better room is then available for 40 sol. They count on the fact that tourists, who are tired of the long journey through the desert, are too tired to pick up their luggage and choose a decent hotel. Flights for $30 simply do not exist.

Arequipa

Climate in June: around 21°C daytime, 4°C at night.

On arrival, buy your bus tickets to Cabanaconde, if you plan on going there. This will save you a separate trip to the bus station.

Plaza de Armas is the central square where people gather

Mercado Central

It is nicknamed the 'white city' (la ciudad blanca, in Spanish), because many of the buildings in the area are built of sillar, a white stone. This rock was quarried from the many volcanoes that surround the city, including the towering El Misti.

The city has a central urban area that can be explored on foot. The historic center is a 5 block area around the main square and is relatively easy to navigate with one of the many maps available at hotels or any information office. Some ancient districts like Yanahuara and Cayma are also within walking distance. Walking is safe within reason even at nighttime. Follow your hotel recommendations on which places NOT to go.

See the Juanita Mummy in the Museo Santuarios Andinos. From May to November the main exhibit is the Dama de Ampato, also known as Juanita. It is close to the main square.

Convento de Santa Catalina is the most visited building from the Spanish era of the city. Described as a city within a city, this beautiful place with its colors, flowers and little streets will make you feel like you have traveled back in time. Quite close to the Plaza de Armas.

Arequipa has beautiful bridges. Puente Bolognesi is the closest to the main square. Go there and visit the Tambos (ancient houses rebuilt by the city government and used as apartments). Great experience and good views of El Misti and Chachani

Puente Fierro is an iron bridge designed by Eiffel and still in service. A technological jewel located in Vallecito (10 blocks from main square) and a must for people who love trains and bridges. From the bridge, at golden time (4.00-5.00PM), you can get some of the best pictures from the volcanoes and the city. Worth the 15 minutes walk!

Santa Catalina monistry

Do: Peruvian Cooking Experience. Hands on activity where you prepare Peruvian Food and enjoy eating after. A cultural souvenir from Peru. Several menus available. Daily except Sunday. A Pisco Sour Lecture and visit to the market are also optional with the activity

Do: Spanish language course. Because of its weather, friendly people and budget prices (compared to Lima or Cusco), Arequipa is a great place to learn Spanish. Several schools are available. Most of them with excellent programs. Classes are usually offered in a per week basis, and with accommodation packages included.

Visit the Misti volcano at Mirador de Yanahuara. It offers a fantastic view across Arequipa. One can slowly walk towards it or grab a cab for couple of Soles. A quiet little park can be found here, as well as a small church that can be visited free of charge.

Taste Pisco at a rooftop bar. Pisco is Peru’s local drink that you should have tried at least once. In Arequipa, this can be done best around dusk at the rooftop bar ‘Los Portales’. Arequipa is the cradle for the Acholado type, a Pisco coming from a mixture of several grapes. Locals drink it pure, in little sips. Chilcano is another way to drink it, Pisco with white soda.

The Venezia is at the skirts of Plaza de Armas. It offers a great view of the cathedral and snowy distant mountain tops. A good place to watch the sunset in Arequipa is in one of the third floor restaurants on the main square. Make sure you are a little in advance because there might be others as well. The view of the mountains and the main square is amazing.

Browse the San Camilo Market.

Arequipa is called the World´s capital of the Alpaca, a wool that comes from this Andean camels and considered very fine and valuable.

Try Alpaca steaks. This meat very low in fat is juicy and very soft. Presented in all the variations that beef is presented regularly.

Indian Cuisine, Calle Bolivar 502. Range of tasty Indian dishes.
Mandarian, Mercaderes 310. One of the better Chifa (Peruvian chinese) places in town.
Tacos y Tequilas, Calle Ugarte 112. A nice atmospheric Mexican restaurant.
Zig Zag Restaurant (Alpandina Gastronomy), Zela 210 - Cercado (3 blocks north of Plaza de Armas, across from Plaza San Fransciso). High(er) class dining.

Many bars and clubs for tourists are on Calle San Francisco, uphill from the main square. Many have happy hour specials until 10.00PM.

There is an area of the city called Calle Dolores, with discotheques, karaoke bars, and salsa ballrooms usually attended by locals but safe enough for travellers. The taxi is needed to get there.

Frogs Live, Calle Zela 216. Cover bands belt out rock tunes while the patrons chug huge mugs of Pilsen. Leave your guns and knives at home as you will get frisked at the door. S./10.

Encomium Trova, Avenida Dolores 124. Live trova in an intimate atmosphere. Starts around midnight Thursday through Saturday. S./30

All the usual advice given for Peru applies here as well. Arequipa feels like a somewhat safe city, and like in most of the other major Peruvian cities there is always a fairly large police presence. That said, don't unnecessarily flaunt your valuables or your money. Despite of this, there have been several robberies reported. DO NOT walk alone after 11.00PM in the downtown area!

In the downtown area, there is a fairly large presence of tourist police, wearing white shirts. Ask them for help.

Taxi: the best of these is the "Turismo Arequipa" company with a green and white logo (watch out for fakes). "Taxitel" is also good.

Do not forget, that UBER is operating in Arequipa, and that is also a very safe alternative.

https://wikitravel.org/en/Arequipa
https://www.reisjunk.nl/peru/arequipa/

Colca Canyon

Cabanaconde

The drive from Arequipa to Cabanaconde, via Chivay, is ABSOLUTELY stunning. The journey back in a minivan still ranks as one of the most visually satisfying that can be experienced in South America - smoking volcanoes piercing blue skies, arrow straight tarmac towards the horizon with nothing but dusty copper plains on each side, groups of wild alpacas lazing together, and steep stacked dull green hills and slopes guarding the way with Incan terrace tiers and locals in colourful traditional clothing dotted throughout.

Colca Canyon trek tours - note the word ‘trek’ here - will however take you and a group down into the valley along one of the most popular hiking routes, and include either one or two nights accommodation, transport, a guide, and most meals. These are the best option for those who want to hike, but don’t want do it independently. You do however have to have a relatively good level of fitness, prepare / pack accordingly for a relatively challenging multiday hike, and factor in a couple of days into your Peru itinerary.

Pack this stuff for a trek:

• Hat | Suncream | Head Torch |  Powerbank | Plenty Cash | Water Filter Bottle | Toilet Paper
• Musquito spray -  it is loaded with stinging flies and musquitos (no malaria).
• Swimming gear and flip-flops in case of hot spring or swimming pool
• Towel (can be borrowed from guesthouse)
• Long pants and a thick sweater for the evening (it gets pretty cold after dusk) + extra t-shirt, socks and underwear.

There are a handful of very small tiendas (shops) on the route if you need extra fluids or snacks. There are no ATMs on the route and cash is king, so make sure to bring enough to cover your time on the route plus emergencies; it’s always best to take a third-more than you think you’ll need PLUS emergency.

The entree to the Colca Canyon is 70 soles (€19). The ticket is valid for one week. You don’t need to buy your ticket in advance. Just start your trek, and you’ll automatically encounter someone who will ask for your ticket and can sell you one. It does sound a bit like a scam, but this is the way things work at the Colca Canyon.

Within the canyon, Sangalle (also known as Oasis) is the best known and most touristic spot . Apart from that, there is San Juan de Chuccho, Tapay, Coshnirwa, Llahuar and a few other villages.

https://www.pachamamahome.com/tours.htm ←-------- best link
https://www.alongdustyroads.com/posts/best-colca-canyon-route
https://www.reisjunk.nl/peru/colca-canyon/ advises to not go with a guide
https://www.alongdustyroads.com/posts/colca-canyon-trek-guide
Chivay
Chivay area provides colorful embroidery called "maquinaza style". You can find hats, purses and many handicrafts with this attractive and typical embroidery in most of the souvenir stores in the city.

07:00 4M Express to Cusco (9 hours, $65 per person). Includes multiple beautiful stops.  You can reserve your bus ticket online. The bus only rides on Monday, Wednesday and Friday, take that in consideration when creating your itinerary.

Puno

Puno is a small city located on the shore of Lake Titicaca, a high altitude lake on the border of Peru and Bolivia. It’s said to be the ‘Capital folklórica del Perú’ (folkloric capital of Peru) and is a fantastic place to explore traditional art, culture, and dance. Visit Puno and you’ll get a chance to see one of the most unique places in the world: a floating city made of reeds, inhabited by the Aymara people who have lived here for centuries.

Puno is an important agricultural and livestock region; important livestock are llamas and alpacas, which graze on its immense plateaus and plains. Much of the city economy relies on the black market, fueled by cheap goods smuggled in from Bolivia.

Puno is often characterized as a dirty industrial town, the ‘dirty’ is petty accurate. There is a stench and plenty of (stray) dogs.

Puno's access to Lake Titicaca is surrounded by 41 floating islands. To this day, the Uros people maintain and live on these man-made islands, depending on the lake for their survival, and are a large tourist destination. Dragon Boat racing, an old tradition in Puno, is a very popular activity amongst tourists.

Average day temp in June is around 14 degrees Celsius, night temp is 0 degrees. At this high altitude, the rays of the sun are very strong.

The Kuntur Wasi viewpoint has a large metal sculpture of a condor. There are some 700 steps to climb to reach the sculpture, but the view across the city and Lake Titicaca beyond is breathtaking.

There are no terraces. Shops are limited to some souvenir shops and one large supermarket.

Scam 1: the “locals” here live on the mainland, not on these islands. The house tours conducted here are basically shopping trips to get you to buy their “handicraft”.

Scam 2: midway, your original boat driver disappears, and you are pressured to pay an additional fee to take a reed boat that they call “Mercedes”.

Cusco

Winter occurs between April to September, with abundant sunshine and occasional night time freezes; July is the coolest month with an average of 9.7 °C. Cusco was found in 2006 to be the spot on Earth with the highest average ultraviolet light level.

A day to the sacred valley of the Inca’s including a visit to the traditional Indian market in Pisac, the beautiful village Ollantaytambo and the mountain village Chinchero.

Many of the most popular sights in Cusco can only be visited with a 'Tourist ticket' (Boleto Turistico). This ticket offers entrance to many sights in and around Cusco and costs around 130 Soles (around €35) and 70 Soles (€20) for students with an ISIC-card. The ticket has a validity of 10 days and can be bought at the  OFEC-kantoor at the Avenida Sol 103, kantoor 102 (mon-fri 8u-18u30, sat 8u-2pm) .
Several sights that can be visited with this ticket are:

• The Santa Catalinaklooster and the art museum
• Museo de Historia Regional (Casa Inca Garcilazo de la Vega).
• Museo Palacio Municipal de Arte.
• The Archeologisch Koricancha (but not Koricancha itself).
• Museo de Arte Popular.
• Centro de Arte Qosqo Nativo.
• Monumento Pachacutec.
• The Inca-ruïnes of Sacsayhuaman, Q'enko, Tambomachay en Puca Pucara.
• Pisac, Ollantaytambo en Chinchero. (These sites are usually visited as part of a Sacred Valley day tour).
• Urcos: Pikillacta (the only large pre-Inca ruin in the vicinity of Cusco) and Tipon (mainly Inca terraces).
• Tickets to the cathedral (€3), Koricancha/ Tempel of the Sun (€1,80), San Blas church, the Inca Museum (€3), Museo de Arte Precolombino (€4,60), Museo de Arte Religioso del Arzobispado (€3) and La Merced (€0,90) are sold separately as well.
• Plaza de Armas - The Plaza de Armas (the central square) used to be the centre of Inka-Cuzco and still is the center of moderne Cusco. During the Inca period, it was named Plaza "Huacaypata" (market of tears), it was a spot for ceremonies and military parades. It was said that when Incas conquered new territory, they mixed part of the soil with the soil of Huacaypata, as a symbolic gesture of the territory being part of the Inca empire now as well.
• The plaza was once flanked by Inca palaces. The remains of the old walls of the Pachacutec palace can still be seen at the North-West corner of the square (close to the corner of the Plaza with Calle Plateros).

Mainly shops and travel agencies can be found at the North and West side of the Plaza. There are also restaurants and café's.

Beware of this scam:
Opening: on the way up to Sacsayhuaman, touts armed with professional brochures will offer to bring you to all the ruins on a horse tour.
Set-up: however, no horses are allowed at any of these points. If you take the horse ride, you will only be able to see the sites from a distance.

The Sacsayhuaman ruins that overlook Cusco are notorious for muggings. The sunset and sunrise views may be beautiful but they're also prime time for bandits. If you do head up there, make sure you're in a group.

Aguas Calientes

The cheapest way to get there is to take the bus from Cusco to Ollantaytambo. In Ollantaytambo, you can take the train (1u30m) to Aguas Calientes.

Peru Rail has 4 different quality services: Vistadome trains, Expedition, Sacred Valley and the Hiram Bingham luxury train.

Inca Rail has 4 different services: The Voyager, The 360º, The First Class and The Private

Peru Rail is the oldest company, authorized to operate the Machu Picchu route, it has different services. Their web site is www.perurail.com.

• Expedition: The Expedition has wagons totally covered by panoramic windows and service on board, snacks and Peruvian food. $ 140.
• Vistadome: train with wide wagons, with panoramic windows in the roof and the sides that will allow you to take photographs of the entire route through the valley. With traditional music, cuisine, and dances. $ 190.
• Sacred Valley: This train links Urubamba with Machu Picchu on a luxurious journey through the beautiful landscapes of the Sacred Valley of the Incas. Includes lunch (or dinner) in the observatory car or the dining car.
• Belmond Hiram Bingham: It is one of the most luxurious trains in the world, exclusive and with service on board. It has 4 choches, dining car, car bar, gourmet dinner, transportation and tickets to Machu Picchu.

Inca Rail is a Peruvian company that offers rail transportation services from Ollantaytambo to Machu Picchu. Their website is www.incarail.com.

• The Voyager: The cars have comfortable seats, folding tables and panoramic windows. Set with Latin American music. There is on-board service and a selection of drinks made with Andean fruits and herbs.
• The 360º: They have large panoramic windows, set with Latin American music, on-board service, with a selection of hot and cold beverages, as well as selling handcrafted products on board.
• The First Class: It has ambient music, natural flowers and covered tables. You will be served a welcome cocktail, lunch and / or gourmet dinner. Serves only in high tourist season (from April to October) and special dates.
• The Private: With capacity for 8 people. The car, known as the ‘Princess Inca’ is of the presidential class. The car has many details in its decoration, food on board, free bar. This train operates only by request.

On the outskirts of Cusco in a small village called Poroy, it is a principal train station with services to Machu Picchu. Poroy is about 25 minutes by road from Cusco city and can be reached by local taxi or colectivo. Taxi will cost between 20 and 30 soles (depending on your location within Cusco).

The journey time by train is 3 hours and 20 minutes, the train stops just once at Ollantaytambo Station before ending at Aguas Calientes.

Once in Cusco, the gateway to Machu Picchu, you’ll have 3 options to choose from suiting all types of travelers: train, trek or minivan.

Ollantaytambo is a famous town located in the Sacred Valley of the Incas in Cusco, Peru. Its fame is due to the fact that it is the only Inca town that preserves its streets and urban design.

Aguas Calientes is a village situated at a river at the foot of Machu Picchu, it can only be reached by train. The village is isolated from public roads. This means that tour buses from Cusco don’t driver further than Ollantaytambo, where on has to transit onto a train. There is one early and late train ride that is reserved for the locals, it is not accessible to tourists. The train ride has magnificent views, some train types have extra large windows. Cost of a round ticket start at around €100.

The village is situated in a tropical climate zone, many tropical plants and animals can be observed. Because of the deep in the valley there is little sunlight. Aguas Calientes is fully targeted at tourists, as a result it has countless restaurants and lodges, with prices being quite a bit higher than elsewhere in Peru. Average price for a dinner meal is between 35 to 40 soles. There is quite some price variation between different restaurants, so be sure to inspect the menu card before stepping inside.

For a cheap lunch, go to TAO: one sandwich plus a drink costs around 18 Soles. For dinner, Mapacho is said to be good, with good dishes and a large (special) beer menu.

At the end of the village are warm water sources.

It is recommended to stay the night prior to your visit in Aguas Calientes, you’ll spend less time in a queue, and the historic side is less busy. Get up early in the morning at 5.00u though.

At the historic side itself, there is just one restaurant with consequently high prices. Therefore, it is recommended to carry along enough water and sandwiches/snacks

From Aguas Calientes, transfer buses ride to the entrance of Machu Picchu. You could skip the bus, and climb 350 meters through tropical rainforest, but this is not recommended.Take the bus instead. It will set you around 22 euro back. To access Machu Picchu from Aguas Calientes it is necessary to take a short shuttle bus ride. There is just one road in Aguas Calientes, which leads from the village to Machu Picchu. The journey takes approximately 40 minutes in each direction. The shuttle buses are operated by a local company called Consettur, and are all modern and air-conditioned. Shuttle Buses to Machu Picchu operate throughout the day, and depart ether Aguas Calientes or Machu Picchu when they are full. There are no set times for departures, but you will probably never wait more than 15 minutes.

Machu picchu

In Quechua, the language of the Incas, Machu Picchu means old mountain. Huayna Picchu (also known as ‘Wayna Picchu’), on the other hand, means young mountain.

An eye-catcher on all images of Machu Picchu is the Huayna Picchu ("young mountain"), the mountain top that rises high above it on the north side of the city. The summit is 2700 meters high and can be reached on foot via a fairly steep climb. In places where the path is too steep, there is a hold on ropes. The climb takes about an hour, requiring a reasonable physical condition.

Once inside the citadel, you have the option to climb either Huayna Picchu (the famous peak seen in pictures of the citadel) or Machu Picchu Mountain.

Pre-book your tickets, there is a 2500 visitors/day cap.
https://thriftynomads.com/how-to-buy-machu-picchu-tickets-online/
https://www.ticketmachupicchu.com/

• Ticket Machu Picchu Solo – Allows you to visit the Inca city of Machu Picchu. It must be bought a few weeks before. The ticket is recommended for the whole family.
• Ticket Machu Picchu + Huayna Picchu – Allows you to visit the Inca city of Machu Picchu as well as the Huayna Picchu mountain. It must be purchased 3 months before. This ticket is recommended for adventurous tourists without fear of heights.
• Ticket Machu Picchu + Mountain – Allows you to visit the Inca city of Machu Picchu as well as the Machu Picchu mountain. It must be bought a few weeks before. The ticket is recommended for children, adults and anyone who likes walks.

Further:

• Take your passport along. You cannot enter without it!
• Tripods are not allowed at the historical site.
• You cannot come to Machu Picchu with your travel backpack. Only smaller models are allowed so leave your backpack in Aguas Calientes if you’re stuck with it. You can pay a hotel a small amount of money to take care of it.
• Walking sticks are not allowed unless the person needs them.
• The starting point of the hike is at 2.433 meters of elevation. The summit of Huayna Picchu is at 2.682 meters, which means that the climb is 249 meters.
• From the checkpoint to the top and back takes approx 2 hours (including drink- and photostops).
• When reaching the Huayna Picchu summit, one can descend again, but one could also continue to the Temple of the Moon. For this, follow the signs in the direction of Gran Caverna. In total, it would take 4 hours of hiking before return to the checkpoint.

Scam 1: some companies sell fake train tickets to get here and fake entry tickets online.

Scam 2: guides and operators will claim that you cannot enter without a guide.

Get tickets from the government website. If you want a guide/operator to help you make transport arrangements and share useful information, get a licensed, reputable one:

Offline operators: ask – is the operator licensed? Is there a website, office and working phone number? Are there real online reviews? What does the price cover – is it too cheap?

Tour operators need two certificates, one from the city and one from the tourist board. Make sure they have one of each hanging in their office.

Online platforms: GetYourGuide (leading day tour platform globally) also has several popular Machu Picchu tours.
Links
https://www.twoscotsabroad.com/peru/
https://www.reisjunk.nl/peru/reisroute-peru/
https://www.hostelworld.com/